Day 40: Ordway, CO to Eads, CO

Today's Mileage: 63
Total Mileage: 2078

Once again, we attempted an early start to beat the heat. The cafe opened late, and our breakfast took a while, so we weren't on the road until after 8 a.m. The first few miles were cool and pleasant.

The winds kicked in strong, but they were mostly crosswinds. Nonetheless, our progress East was slow and grueling. We finally reached Haswell, the 2/3 rest point of our ride, where we were fortunate to find the propane shop open. The propane guy sold us tons of cold drinks and snacks, and after a couple hours of rest (me sleeping under a tree outside, Karin and Debbie watching TV on the couch inside), we were ready to finish the ride. It was somewhat cooler after 5 p.m. and the sun was at our backs, so we continued without too much suffering.

A few miles out of Eads, I remarked to myself how much the prairie dogs sounded like cats meowing. I was surprised to hear the sound still so close, and I turned around to look. Sure enough, it was following me! Only, it wasn't a prairie dog, but a tiny kitten racing down the highway behind me at full speed, and bawling at the top of his lungs.

Now, I'm not much of a cat person, but this little guy was too cute not to stop. Debbie and I figured he was an unwanted kitten left on the side of the road to die. He was so affectionate and starved for attention that we decided to take him into town, where he might have better luck. He wouldn't cooperate when we tried to balance him on top of our things, so we let him run alongside the bikes for a while. Then Debbie wrapped him in a towel and put him in her handlebar bag, where he sat calmly. We pulled into town and saw some children selling rocks, and the kitten jumped off the bike and ran to the arms of a little boy. I love happy endings. I'm sure that little boy's parents do too ;)

Wesley had managed to finagle a free all-you-can-eat dinner at the high school, but our cat-saving got us there too late to partake. We ate at a cafe and opted for a motel, since we were all badly in need of showers.

Day 39: Pueblo, CO to Ordway, CO

Today's Mileage: 58
Total Mileage: 2015

We awoke refreshed and rejuvenated at Aunt Irene's house. Wesley cooked up some eggs, and we lounged around for way too long before hitting the road. We didn't get off until 9:30 and it was already hot.

The ride out of Pueblo was fun, and we were excited to finally be on the official TransAmerica trail heading East.

The ride was mellow and flat. We stopped for lunch in Boone, and were happy to see a sign in the grocery store welcoming cyclists to the Prairie Horizon Trail. Bill was inside, and he offered us a map and lots of useful information about the area... such as, DON'T talk to the town pervert, a local con-artist who tricks children, senior citizens, and apparently cyclists into his lurid games. Sure enough, when we passed his house we saw a sign welcoming Adventure Cyclists into his lair.

The flat, mellow ride continued along happily. We found a restaurant open in Olney Springs, and stopped for a cold drink. This place also made a point of welcoming us to the Prairie Horizons Trail, and asked us to sign the log. They also tipped us off to a special treat 11 miles down the road in Ordway: the spray-park.

We arrived at our destination to find Wesley at a park, jumping around in a fountain. We changed into our bathing suits and joined him - what a great thing to find on a hot day like today! (It was also good, because it substituted for the shower we wouldn't be getting in the evening).

We ate an an excellent little cafe and headed off to the park to camp. I fixed a flat tire while some local guys tried to scare us. The high school was showing Spiderman on the football field, and kids were everywhere. The town park was apparently also the local "cruising" scene, so we listened to lots of carrying on while we tried to fall asleep. The dogs were barking, and there was a horrible poo smell that kept wafting in our tents, probably from a nearby farm... or perhaps from the park's porta-potty.

Day 38: Cotopaxi, CO to Pueblo, CO

Today's Mileage: 73
Total Mileage: 1957

We awoke with plans of getting an early start to avoid the heat of the day. My rain fly was still wet, and though the sun was up, it hadn't risen enough over the walls of the Arkansas River canyon to dry anything out.

Before leaving, a nice family brought us over some sausage-egg casserole and canteloupe, so we had a good breakfast base to ride on.

The leg by the Arkansas River was beautiful in the morning light. We arrived at our only real climb for the day, up and out of the Royal Gorge. A few more miles downhill put us in Canon City, where we had a bountiful picnic in the park.

The day wasn't getting any cooler, and we still had a lot of ground to cover, so we headed out. We had been deliberating back and forth on which way to go. After much map talk and consultations with locals, we decided on the straight route via Highway 50, even though it would be less scenic and more trafficky.

We had been told that Pueblo was basically downhill, save for a few rolling hills. It turned out to be ALL rolling hills, but unfortunately not the kind where your momentum gets you up the next one. In fact, we were facing HOT headwinds that had us pedaling the entire time. But luckily, we were all in good spirits and pressed on.

The day Karin and Debbie left on their trip, they had stopped at REI for some last-minute gear. The attendant there was a nice guy named Zachary, who told them he had an aunt in Pueblo. To make a long story short, we decided to stay with Aunt Irene, a woman we neither knew nor had any real connection to.

Boy, were we lucky! Aunt Irene had a beautiful home stocked with clean towels, an excellent showerhead, comfy beds, washer and dryer, and internet access... and tons of food! We were thrilled and went to bed happy. Aunt Irene was the best!

Day 37: Sargents, CO to Cotopaxi, CO

Today's Mileage: 65
Total Mileage: 1884

We started our day bright and early in order to have the cool part of the morning for the 9-mile ascent up Monarch Pass. This would be the high point (elevation-wise, anyway) of our trip at 11,312 feet.
It was a steady grade to the top, and while the climb was challenging, it was fun and beautiful. I guess all the "training" on mountains in Nevada paid off, because I made it up with little pain and no complaining. The mountains were beautiful.

At the top, we took turns standing on both sides of the Continental Divide. From this point on, all rivers would flow towards the Atlantic... and the significance of this as it relates to my leaving California wasn't lost on me. I hope it will give me the positive juju I need to keep riding towards the Atlantic.

The descent into Salida was fun, though I had to take it slow because my back tire was damaged. By the time we got into town, it was raining and my tire had lost a bunch of tread and was making flapping noises. The bike shop guys scolded me mercilessly for riding down off the pass on such a destroyed tire, but luckily they informed me that the Armadillo tires I had bought for the trip came with a warranty, and I got a new one for free. They were shocked that such a good tire could have gotten that way after only 1800 miles.

We went to have lunch and celebrate and an excellent pizza place/microbrewery. Afterwards, we went to meet up with Todd, the guy who had carried our gear over the mountain.

Because it was still raining, with thunder and lightning, we spent an hour hanging out at Todd's place. He was an interesting guy, and showed us lots of cool jewelry and other art he had made. He also cleaned our jewelry for us, which was good because my earrings were pretty badly tarnished. Thanks for everything, Todd!

We set out from Salida in a little bit of rain, and our shoes and socks were instantly soaked. By the time we got into the Arkansas River canyon, the sun was coming out and we had a beautiful evening ride into Cotopaxi.

We camped out and ate what we could from the mini-mart before collapsing into a restful sleep by the river.

Day 36: Crested Butte, CO to Sargents, CO

Today's Mileage: 59
Total Mileage: 1819

We said a sad good-bye to Rafa and Molly and headed out for an easy downhill stretch into Gunnison. The morning was beautiful.

After only a couple miles, Wesley got a horrible cramp in his thigh, and was only able to pedal with one leg. He still managed to keep up with us. He decided to stop in Almont and try to massage away the pain, telling us to go on without him.

The three of us girls met up in Gunnison for Sunday brunch and worried about Wesley. He was in a lot of pain. Would he be able to make it to Sargents by evening? Should he hitch a ride? Would he be able to ride up Monarch Pass tomorrow? We left him voice mail and text instructions to meet us in Sargents, even if it meant hitching a ride, and continued on our way.

By this time, the day was getting hot. We only had 33 miles to go, and it was rolling hills, that gradually took us back up to 8000 feet. I was riding slow, but made it to Sargents before any rain could get me. Debbie and Karin had been chatting up some folks before I arrived and managed to perform an awesome Yogi, arranging for our gear carried over Monarch Pass to Salida for us the next day.

We kept our camping gear with us, and eventually Wesley caught up to us, having massaged his leg sufficiently to make the ride. We spent the night in a tepee.

Days 33 - 35: Rest Days!

Because we were at Rafa's house in Crested Butte, we decided to spend a few days hanging around relaxing and enjoying the high country.

What soon became known as Camp Rafa included lots of fun activities: archery, river rafting, slack rope walking, and eating CONSTANTLY. We watched the new Batman movie, and relaxed a bunch.

Thanks to Rafa and Molly for their amazing and generous hospitality. We had a great time!

Day 32: Blue Mesa Reservoir, CO to Crested Butte, CO

Today's Mileage: 42
Total Mileage: 1760

We awoke after a silent, restful night at 6:30. Debbie got lost on the way to the showers, but shortly we were fed on whatever breakfast we could scratch up at the marina store, and we were on our way.

It was just 15 miles to Gunnison, and my bike was already hurting me. But I was determined to ride the entire way, since we would be visiting my older brother. Perhaps I had something to prove, since I have been to Crested Butte to see him several times since he's lived here, including BY BIKE from San Diego, and he NEVER once visited me during the six years I lived there. But I'm not bitter.

After messing around for a little while in Gunnison, snacking on bagels and pirouettes, we headed north to Crested Butte. I got a head start, and Wesley caught me after about 9 miles. At one of my 10-miles stretch breaks, I realized that my saddle was not straight on the bike, and Wesley fixed it for me quickly. After that, I had no more back pain... so perhaps this was the culprit. I don't know how I could have ridden all that time without noticing my seat was crooked!

The rain came on strong, with big, fat, stinging pellets of water, and we scrambled to cover our panniers with rain gear. Just as quickly as it had come on, we rode out of it. Poor Debbie got a flat tire in the rain.

We arrived at Rafa's house, which was huge and beautiful. I was so happy to have a warm, dry place out of the rain.

Day 31: Montrose, CO to Blue Mesa Reservoir, CO

Today's Mileage: 54*
Total Mileage: 1718

What a crappy day!

We got a late start out of Montrose for no particular reason, and it was pretty hot out.
I made it about 6 miles out of town before I realized I was in WAY too much pain to continue. The day before, my back had been bothering me while riding, so I took off my Camelbak and strapped it to my bike, which seemed to help. Perhaps I had put too much strain on it yesterday, or perhaps sleeping in a bed was the problem. Either way, it hurt. (The pain was initially so sharp I actually checked to see if something had stung me!)

I hitched a ride to Cimmaron, our midway point, with a trucker named Brandon. There I took some pain medication and stretched out my back (and napped a little too).

I had passed my three companions as they grunted up the road, and a couple hours later Debbie and Karin rolled in. Wesley must not have seen me snoozing and pushed on. Karin was exhausted after sleeping poorly the night before, and the heat of the midday was getting to all of us. We biked two painful miles to a burger and pie place and rested a while.



At lunch, I got friendly with one of the locals.



The three of us planned to hitch a ride the rest of the way to Sapinero, but a ride together was unlikely with all of us and all our gear. I rode up another mile and got a ride from a nice lady in a truck. Karin and Debbie had continued riding up and finally into a pretty canyon.

I got dropped off by the sign that read "Sapinero" and found myself in the middle of nowhere. I rode a few more miles looking for signs of Wesley, but found nothing, so I doubled back to a likely spot to wait for the girls. I ran into a bike touring couple camped at Blue Mesa Reservoir, but they hadn't seen any of my companions.

Finally, Karin and Debbie showed up and we decided to continue down the road a stretch to check for Wesley at some campgrounds around the lake. Luckily, Debbie's phone got reception and we had a message from Wesley. We were happy to be reunited. The evening colors were pretty over the lake, and we relaxed and planned for an earlier start the next day.

*Only 15 of these miles count for me since I was thumbing, but I'm putting them in here to keep an accurate record of the trip.

Day 30: Telluride, CO to Montrose, CO

Today's Mileage: 66
Total Mileage: 1664

After a night of partying in Telluride, we indulged a little and slept in until 8 a.m. After slowly drying out our wet tents, packing up our things, and making some last-minute adjustments to the bikes, we finally got on the road around 11.

The first few miles out of town were downhill. At Placerville, we took a new road and headed up to the 8970 ft. pass at Devil's Divide. It was a mellow climb, but I was looking forward to having a picture at the top. Although I've been higher than 8000' elevation on this trip, I hadn't yet gotten a picture of a summit at that level. So I was disappointed when I got to the top and there was no sign to add to my collection.

We cruised into Ridgway and had lunch at a cool little cafe that featured a bunch of posters of old Westerns, and some tasty chili.

We got back on the road after 4:30, and had a great time flying through the last 27 miles to Montrose. Even though there was a light headwind, we sped along the downhills and flats, watching the lightning and thunder brewing in the west.

Once in Montrose, we opted for a motel, which ended up being a good decision, since the wind picked up and drove some hard rain our way.

Day 29: Rest Day!

Naked Mileage: 2

Because we were so enchanted with Telluride, we decided to spend a day hanging out around town. Our main goals were to get some laundry done and have our bikes worked on (I had a bent derailleur hanger), but we managed to have a ton of fun while we were at it. We ate a delicious picnic next to the crystal-clear San Miguel River that runs right through town. We rode the free gondola up the mountain, and Karin and Wesley took turns on a bungee-trampoline bouncy-thing, doing flips and amusing us all.

Normally, Telluride has some sort of music festival every weekend during the summer, but we happened to show up on the one weekend known as the "Nothing Festival." Luckily for us, the girl at the bike shop told us about the main activity planned for the weekend: a naked bike ride through town.

It had been raining and gotten decidedly cooler by the time the ride rolled around, but we decided to scope it out anyway. We showed up at the meeting spot (a bar) and made our way to several other bars (and through several tequila shots) before heading to the home of a local guy to disrobe. About 20 of us got naked and got on our bikes.

After a few loops around the traffic circle at the edge of town, the group biked down the main street to much applause and cheering from the crowds gathered on the sidewalks. We rode back to the house to gather our clothes and continue partying with the Telluriders.

There was a lot of Guitar Hero and general debauchery before we made our way back to the campsite.

Day 28: Stoner, CO to Telluride, CO

Today's Mileage: 49
Total Mileage: 1598

We woke up after a freezing cold night's rest and scrounged together some breakfast. With everyone's contributions, we ended up having a nice meal of oatmeal, granola, fruit and nuts.

We set out around 9:15 and the ride to Rico rolled through the mountains up the Dolores River, gradually climbing to about 8800 feet. Along the way, Karin, Debbie, and I were inspired by the scenery and we yodeled our way through the entire score of The Sound of Music... until we ran out of breath going up a hill singing.

In Rico, we had a pricy and less-than-satisfying lunch. I got a head start on the next leg of the ride: the climb up to Lizard Head Pass at 10,200 feet.

The ride was a pretty reasonable 12 miles, climbing slowly until a turn away from the Dolores River made the road significantly steeper for a couple miles. Somebody had spraypainted in orange some motivational messages along the road. The one that kept me going was "The force is strong with this one."

Wesley caught up to me in the last two miles up to the pass. He continued down the mountain, while I waited for Debbie and Karin, who had promised Oreo cookies.

We were looking forward to 15 downhill miles to Telluride, but a steep descent into a creek took us straight back up another 1000 feet. I grunted through it, and did surprisingly well. The last few miles into Telluride were along a bumpy path.

Wesley managed to get the clicking sound in his bottom bracket taken care of, while I asked the visitor's center for cheap motel recommendations. There were none, so we opted for the town campground. We were lucky to run into Rosie, who offered to let us pitch our tents in her campsite, which was nice because the campground was packed.

We set up our tents in the rain, and Debbie and I headed into town to a grocery store and bar. At Smuggler's Brewpub I sampled several beers, and settled on a nicely hopped Russell Kelly Ale. We ate dinner at Smuggler's and ended the evening looking for Karin and Wesley, who were also looking for us.
Luckily, the night air was a perfect temperature for sleeping, and the rush of the river nearby lulled us to sleep.

Day 27: Dove Creek, CO to Stoner, CO

Today's Mileage: 53
Total Mileage: 1549

We woke up early, in the chilly morning air to start our ride. The first 36 miles to Dolores were very pleasant: the air was cool, the hills soft and rolling, and the farmland picturesque.

We stopped at the Narraguinnep Reservoir for a dip in some refreshing water and some snacks.

Once in Dolores, we were thrilled to find the bike shop. My bike (aka the Shopping Cart) was making tons of noise and the gears were grinding all over the place. I also wanted to get a new stem, which would allow me to sit more upright, and hopefully relieve some back pain.

Wesley got some new cycling shorts, and we all admired his never-before-seen shapely legs. Karin got a rearview mirror for her sunglasses.

It was midday and hot, and since we had to wait for my bike, we lounged around Dolores. All of us were charmed by the little town, its restaurant, its children running a lemonade stand, and the relaxed pace of life under a tree at the park.

When my bike was ready, I decided to make another improvement to my set up, and bought a Camelbak-type of backpack. In addition to letting me carry more water, this new space let me move things around on my bike, eliminating the awkward tool bag on the back of the bike that had my gear sitting up way too high.

Satisfied with our purchases, we made one last stop at the Dolores River Brewery, where I was disappointed by their Pale Ale.

We expected the last 14 miles of the day to be a bit of a climb, so we didn't leave until after 5 p.m., when the day had cooled off substantially. We were pleased to enjoy an easy ride along the Dolores River.

The one campground in Stoner was empty, and we were happy to have use of the showers inside some vacant cabins.

The evening got colder and colder, and we were glad to have use of the cabins for cooking, since it turned out that the Stoner Cafe was closed.

Day 26: Blanding, UT to Dove Creek, CO

Today's Mileage: 47
Total Mileage: 1496

We woke up early to meet Debbie and Karin at the complimentary continental breakfast of a hotel where none us had stayed.

I had a flat back tire, and once I fixed it, we were on our way.

We were lucky to have morning cloud cover as we climbed some mellow hills to Monticello. The ride was easy, and I enjoyed having some female company on the road for a change.

After a short stop in Monticello, Wesley and I continued over rolling hills the rest of the way. There was some light rain, but nothing my pannier covers and raincoat couldn't handle.

We crossed over into Colorado, and I stopped at the bar located right at the state line for a beer, and to wait out the rain, since I only had a few more miles to go.

Wesley was waiting at a cafe in Dove Creek. Our camping options were limited, but after some asking around we ended up at a grassy neighborhood park.

Day 25: Rest Day!

We had a full day in Blanding, Utah to relax and take care of business.

First, we breakfasted at two different hotels, neither of which was the one where we were staying. I tried valiantly to upload some pictures on the hotel computer, but the internet was too slow and buggy. I also tried at the visitor's center in town, but they wouldn't let me plug in my camera.

Finally, the public library opened, and Wesley and I spent a couple hour messing around with our photos, paying bills, etc.

On our way to do laundry that evening, we spotted a large group of touring cyclists. It turned out to be a family of nine, the Foxes, who were riding their bikes cross-country until they run out of money. The kids ranged from ages 5 to 18. One of the daughters was on a recumbent bike with her dad, and the mom drove a mini-van to support them.

We also met Debbie and Karin, who had met up with the Fox family the day before and had the benefit of having their gear carried in the mini-van. We were headed the same direction and planning on the same stops, so we decided to ride together the next day.

We all threw some food and drinks together and had quite a feast, (Wesley ate FIVE hotdogs), including birthday cake for one of the boys.

Day 24: Hite, UT to Blanding, UT

Today's Mileage: 77
Total Mileage: 1449

We had a big ride with no water stops ahead of us, so Wesley and I got up early and managed to leave at 6:30 a.m.

The ride began with more of the same awful climb out of the Colorado River. We wound around through White Canyon and enjoyed the views in the morning light. The air felt fresh and we were smooth sailing. Every uphill was followed by a decent recovery period.

I was doing a good job of staying hydrated and resting/stretching my back every 10 miles.

When there were about 15 miles left to go, I was making my way up a steady grade when I met up with a touring cyclist headed the other way. She and I stopped to chat a couple minutes and look at each other's maps. I felt myself get a little head rush, and the next thing I knew, I was on the ground with my bike on top of me -- I had fainted! How crazy is that?! The woman said I was only out for a few seconds, and I was glad she was there because she happened to be a firefighter. So, needless to say, I took a little rest in the shade and had some more snacks and water. I can only imagine that the heat got to me, or perhaps just exhaustion, because I really was well-watered and fed when I passed out.

I continued on, feeling strong, for about two more miles when all of a sudden, the ABSOLUTE steepest, longest, worst hills jumped up in front of me. (I know I keep saying that each hill was worse than the last, but Wesley agreed with me, so I'm not exaggerating).

I don't know how I managed those last few climbs. I definitely had to stop a couple times... but I made it.

I was so happy to see a gas station at the junction with Highway 191. I stopped to have one of the best-tasting Cokes I have ever had, even though there were only a few miles left to Blanding. The clerk at the store promised me that the last few miles were a gentle grade, so I continued in to town, where Wesley had gotten a hotel room. Luckily for the store clerk, he wasn't lying.

Day 23: Hanksville, UT to Hite, UT

Today's Mileage: 50
Total Mileage: 1372

The ride to Hite, situated where the Colorado River enters Lake Powell, was 50 miles with no services, so we prepared ourselves with plenty of water and tried to get a semi-early start to beat the heat.

The first 20 miles we faced a stiff headwind. This was a pain, but since the sky was still cloud-covered, it was bearable, albeit slow.

The middle portion of the ride took us into a pretty canyon of red rock, with a tree-lined dry riverbed.

Leaving the canyon, there was some climbing before we were able to look out over the northern end of Lake Powell, where bunch of rivers dump into each other. The highlights (besides the pea-soup color of the water) were crossing our first two real bridges, over the Dirty River, and more notably, the Colorado River.

There was one final long uphill push after the bridge, and then a small side road took us to the Hite Recreation Area, where we found the only store for 50+ miles in either direction.

Luckily, the store was open for another hour or so, and the storekeeper was friendly and full of good information.

We opted to "camp" on some picnic tables under an overhang, and we watched the sky grow dark with storm clouds.

Some bikers (motorcycle types) decided to join us for the evening.

Day 22: Torrey, UT to Hanksville, UT

Today's Mileage: 49
Total Mileage: 1322

We knew we had an easy day ahead of us, both in terms of mileage and climbing, so we were able to take our time and enjoy the scenery.

The first 20 miles took us through Capitol Reef, where we saw beautiful red rock formations. What was neat was that a single bend in the road could lead us into a canyon with completely different colors and features.

Wesley (aka the Deer Whisperer) got some cool pictures of a deer eating apricots off a low tree.

The trip was mellow and uneventful. We stopped at a small organic farm and bakery where I got a delicious salad. It's amazing how my body craves fresh fruits and vegetables on this trip, and how easy it is to take these for granted in my "normal" life. On the road, our food options have often been the mini-marts attached to gas stations, so opportunities for real food are a welcome sight.

Toward the end of the ride we met a guy named Parker who was heading west. It's neat to find other bikers on the road and trade stories with them.

We got to Hanksville early, and lazed around a campsite, shooing away flies and catching up on phone calls. We also met some westbound cyclists staying the night in Hanksville.

Day 21: Escalante, UT to Torrey, UT

Today's Mileage: 64*
Total Mileage: 1273

Wesley and I bid farewell to Alpine (who made it a full third of our route across the country) and Fox (who conveniently joined us for the two most beautiful days so far), and we were on our way.

Still in the Escalante-Grand Staircase National Monument, we descended into a deep and beautiful canyon. There were no guard rails anywhere, just red rocks and excellent panoramas. And as with most downhills, this one was followed by an uphill: THE steepest, most insane uphill I have seen to date. At one rest point I stopped to watch a couple cars going up the steep grade and confirmed that this nightmare of a climb was not all in my head. I managed to make it up four painful, beautiful miles to the top, where we rode the crest of the mountains for a long stretch. The road was narrow and winding, but the views made up for it.

When I got to Boulder, our midday stop, I was unable to do anything before I put in a 30 minute nap. Then I managed to eat lunch and get my (shaky) legs back on the bike. But it wasn't long before I realized that my legs would not cooperate. The first 5 miles were uphills disguised as downhills (confirmed by Wesley) and I could barely make the bike move. Perhaps I was spoiled after two days with the SAG wagon, or perhaps my legs had just had enough over the past few days... but I had to call it quits.

I debated hiding my bike behind a tree and crawling into a hole for the night, but decided it would be wiser to hitch a ride to Torrey. Luckily, the second car to pass picked me up. Brian and Anna were very kind and loaded me up with all my gear. They pulled off at all the scenic overlooks so I got to enjoy the ride.
I was so glad not to be Wesley, who climbed 3500 feet over the course of the last 37 miles. He was happy to claim his new top speed of 47.1 mph on the descent into Torrey - yikes!

We camped at a grassy little site and Wesley gorged on a huge sandwich and a whole pint of ice cream: well deserved!

*Yeah, I guess 32 of these miles don't count for me, but I'm putting 'em in here for Wesley anyway!

Day 20: Panguitch, UT to Escalante, UT

Today's Mileage: 68
Total Mileage: 1209

Dave Fox, Wesley, and I started the day's ride out of Panguitch after a quick stop at the grocery store for some breakfast muffins.

After the first 9 miles, we entered Red Canyon and got to ride on a bike path away from traffic that was smooth as a baby's butt. The rocks around us were spectacular, and we rode slowly to take it all in.

Next, we passed through a section of Bryce Canyon. We enjoyed a huge, fast downhill through the canyon, only to find another beautiful canyon ahead of us, totally different from the last.

Lunch was at the unfortunately non-descript town of Cannonville, where Fox took over the driving and Alpine joined me on his bike. We had a couple climbs, including an ly steep one out of a canyon, but were rewarded with an 18-mile downhill stretch at the end of the ride.

The wind had kicked up, and a storm was brewing to the North. Fox stopped so we could prepare ourselves with rain gear, but nothing could have prepared me for the vicious crosswind that almost knocked me off my bike several times.

We were pleased to find Fox and Wesley at a cool cafe/outfitter where we enjoyed some of Utah's microbrews (all 4% ABV) and very drinkable.

Up until this point we had been complaining about how uncreative Utah is in naming streets and roads. No matter what town you visit, the streets are named things like 200 North and 1150 East. BORING!

But Fox wisely pointed out that all the creativity that was left out of the street naming went into the naming of beers. Besides the Porter I chuckled about a couple days ago, we also saw Chasing Tail Ale, Virgin Stout, and Evolution Ale (truly a dirty word in these parts), to name a few.

Because the skies were uncertain, we opted to stay in an adorable cabin with bunk beds.

Day 19: Cedar City, UT to Panguitch, UT

Today's Mileage: 58
Total Mileage: 1141

Today was beautiful!

Dave Fox decided to start the ride with me and Wesley, while Alpine did our laundry and drove the SAG wagon.

Our ride took us up a gorgeous creek, complete with waterfalls, rock walls, and even some bighorn sheep.

We climbed for about 17 miles before reaching the 9910 foot summit. We continued on the road to Cedar Breaks, eventually reaching over 10,000 feet elevation.

Alpine Dave did a great job driving SAG, pulling over frequently to offer us cold water, ice, and snacks. He also doubled back several times to let us know what kind of terrain to expect in the upcoming miles.

Unfortunately, Fox took the "shortcut" (ahem, WRONG way) down the mountain and was not at the rally point we had designated. Luckily for all, we had the truck and Alpine was able to retrieve Fox before he ventured too far off course.

One of the highlights of the day was seeing Cedar Breaks, a beautiful red canyon-y rock area cutting into the mountain we had climbed.

After lunch in a meadow full of wildflowers, we began the 30-mile downhill to Panguitch. It was mostly fun, but the bumps in the road got a little irritating.

With 18 miles left, Alpine and Fox traded duties. The last part of the ride included a cool stream, a lovely lake, and a gorgeous gorge.

We set up camp at the KOA in Panguitch, thankful for the pool and shower. Dinner was at a Texas-style BBQ place in town, and shortly after we were ready for bed.

Day 18: Milford, UT to Cedar City, UT

Today's Mileage: 60
Total Mileage: 1083

We were excited to get going today, because it was a short, easy ride and we would be meeting Dave Fox in Cedar City for a couple days of riding with the team.

First, some of our gear needed to dry out from the previous night's mishap. We didn't get on the road until 10:30. The map for the ride out of town sent us along State Route 129... So when we missed the turnoff, we were a little concerned, even though Route 21 would also lead to Minersville. We decided to take a small paved road across to meet up with the 129 we were supposed to be taking. When we got there, we were dismayed (to say the least) to find a dirt road!

After several miles of grumbling, amid eating dust and appreciating the local agricultural scene, we arrived in Minersville where we picked up Route 130, which would take us all the way into Cedar City.

There was one mellow climb over a mountain range which was easily conquered. We could see our destination just a few miles away in the valley.

Two hours later, we STILL weren't there! For whatever reason, the physics of Utah's bumpy roads kept us going slow on the downhills and practically stopped on the flats. It was a hot day, and I was thrilled to find Wesley and Dave Fox hanging out in the pool at our motel. The water temperature was perfect, and even better, Fox had brought along some Ballast Point Big Eye IPA.

Day 17: Baker, NV to Milford, UT

Today's Mileage: 84
Total Mileage: 1023

The day's ride began in good spirits, as we were only a few miles away from claiming a new state. The first few miles of Utah took us by a pretty stream and pasture land with happy-looking cows.

Because we would be traveling 84 miles without any access to services, we packed a lot of water and braced ourselves for the worst.

There were three mountain ranges to cross, and each was worst than the last. The valleys were full of hot headwinds and provided no rest after the long climbs. But we had no choice, so we pushed on.

Whoever dubbed Highway 50 "the Loneliest Road in America" clearly hadn't been on this part of Highway 6. Only about 15 cars passed us all day. We did see some deer.

Which is why I resorted to waving my water bottle at anything on four wheels. We were lucky to have a couple turn around and offer us cold cold water and ice. Alpine tried to score a beer, but the nice lady refused him, saying he would get dehydrated. The final push up and over the last pass was dreadful.

My butt was in so much pain by the time we rolled (slowly) into Milford. It was dark out, and we ate an exhausted dinner before setting up camp at a local park.

After a horrible, trying day I learned a valuable lesson: camping on the soft green grass is NOT the best option when the soft green grass is maintained by sprinklers on a timer system that goes off in the middle of the night. Especially when you neglect to put up the rain fly!

Day 16: Ely, NV to Baker, NV

Today's Mileage: 64
Total Mileage: 939

We awoke rested and ready for our "easy" ride to Baker, Nevada, just west of the Utah border. We were fortunate to have ample time to warm up our bodies before climbing our first mountain, which was a fairly easy ascent to 7700+ feet.

The halfway point brought us to Majors Junction, where the map showed a cute little picture of a sudsy mug, indicating the only service there was a bar. In fact, the riders we had met two days before had tipped us off that the place also had decent burgers, so we stopped for lunch. The two real treats were the free ice cream cones the nice bar owner gave us, and the deliciously cool well water she filled our bottles with before we left.

The next few miles a headwind threatened our path, but we were lucky to turn away from it.

The second and last climb of our day turned out to be complete hell. What looked like a relatively mellow upgrade over a 7100 foot pass was long and steep. I was pretty pooped by the time I got to the top.

I started thinking, "Doesn't Sylvia owe me a back rub? Where IS that girl when you need her?!"

The last few miles descended gradually and with a light headwind into the tiny town of Baker. Wesley was already set up at the only campground in town. After showering and doing some laundry, we made it to one of the three stores in town JUST in time to find a good selection of microbrews for sale. I couldn't resist buying the Polygamy Porter -- why have just one?

Unfortunately, Baker has no cell phone service... so we have been unable to get in touch with people, and this blog entry will post late.

Day 15: Rest Day!

We spent our rest day in Ely, Nevada. We were happy that Wesley had picked the coolest (and cheapest) hotel in town.

It felt good to walk around town for a change... Nice to be using my muscles in a different way. Ely is covered in murals.

After an unsuccessful visit to a place whose "high speed" internet was frustrating beyond belief, we parked ourselves at the lounge in the casino and had a couple drinks. I blew $1 on video blackjack, and felt my mind and soul go almost completely numb.

Day 14: Eureka, NV to Ely, NV

Today's Mileage: 78
Total Mileage: 875

We woke up late (7:30 a.m.) and began a 4.75 mile ascent up the first summit on Highway 50. My bike felt SO heavy and the going was slow. I did spot a coyote crossing the road.

After crossing the first range, we entered a large basin. Wesley had some deer running alongside him (racing him?!) through the valley.

The day was long: several mountain passes at 7000+ feet punctuated by long valleys. There were few cars and no stops for water or snacks.

Shortly before the third big climb, we ran into some other touring cyclists going in the opposite direction. It really boosted my morale to talk to people with 77 days and 4300 miles under their belts.

Even though the ride was long and tough, I had one of my best riding days so far - aches and pains were minimal and I felt strong and energized all day.

When we had only five downhill miles left to get into Ely, a fierce headwind kicked up. We fought our way DOWNhill at 7 mph and checked into historic Hotel Nevada, the tallest and first fireproof building in the state when it was built in 1929. Our room on the 5th floor was easily accessed by elevator, and we "enjoyed" showers that fluctuated drastically in temperature due to the old age of the plumbing.

Dinner was at a Chinese food place, which satisfied a need for fresh vegetables. We were all happy at the prospect of sleeping in on our rest day, so we indulged in some beers and stayed up until the late hour of 11:30.

Day 13: Austin, NV to Eureka, NV

Today's Mileage: 72
Total Mileage: 797

We awoke early after some very sound sleep, and were pleased to find the day overcast. Again, we would be traveling the whole day without access to water or other services, so we performed the ice cold water bottle ritual in preparation. The first 10 miles would include major climbing, taking us through two mountain passes over 7000 feet elevation.

Alpine noticed a flat as soon as we got going, so he and Wesley gave me a head start up the mountain. It was amazing how much easier a hard climb could be at the beginning of the day, when I was still feeling fresh and the temperature was still cool.

The third mountain pass was deceivingly difficult, but was followed by thirty miles through a nice flat basin with a tailwind to push us along.

Wesley was already long gone, so Dave and I stopped at a pleasantly surprising, unannounced rest area for lunch. Yogi flagged down an RV to beg for ice and water, even though we were more than amply supplied.

The ride took us through some pretty country before the small climb into Eureka. We had missed the 4th of July parade, but Wesley found us a grassy park to camp in.

We were also fortunate to find a laundromat that served beer. Clean clothes were long overdue. The town of Eureka was busy for the holiday, so we waited a while for our dinners, then headed to the main street to watch a really long fireworks display.

Day 12: Middlegate, NV to Austin, NV

Today's Mileage: 66
Total Mileage: 725

Our morning began in Middlegate with a delicious breakfast and some more mingling with the local yokels.

We knew we wouldn't have water or any other services for 64 miles, so we spent a good while preparing water bottles, including some ice cold bottles to be insulated in towels and left alone until the afternoon.

Our route took us along the Pony Express trail. When we passed by Cold Springs we happened to see some signs of life, and were invited to refill our water bottles from a hose.

We were so happy to have cold water to drink at the top of a couple mountain passes. Dave used a rest break as an opportunity to hold his empty water bottle out in to the road and the first car to pass by stopped to offer us raspberry flavored water.

Later, we stopped at a small river with big fish so we could dip our feet in. Yogi Dave suckered another passerby into giving us three Cokes and some more water. This was only 7 miles from the day's final destination, but we still didn't know just what we were in for.

We climbed almost 2000 feet in the last four miles into Austin. It was so painful and awful, especially after a long day of riding. Wesley gave me a pep talk and rode in with me the last 500 feet (he had already been in Austin for a while and saw my haggard body cranking up the hill)... only to to find out that we were camping even FURTHER up the mountain. (Wesley's half-mile was more than a mile).

I practically collapsed when I got there, but managed to set up my tent and take a shower. We walked to the closest possible place to eat. Walking back up the hill was exhausting, and I crawled into bed by 9 p.m.

Day 11: Fallon, NV to Middlegate, NV

Today's mileage: 48
Total mileage: 659

The Day That Wouldn't Start

We began our morning in Fallon with a trip to Wal-Mart, and a couple of failed attempts to find a bike shop that didn't exist. Alpine Dave bought a new tire and we headed for the last mini-mart at the edge of town to stock up on water and snacks. After getting ALL ready to go, we started out for the road, only to discover that I had a flat tire. So it was back to the shade to fix that, and it was after 11:00 by the time we really got going.

Highway 50 is known as America's Loneliest Highway, and we were about to find out why. We passed through some salt flats and continued up into the mountains, and saw very few cars along the way.

We arrived at Middlegate to find a sign welcoming us to "the Middle of Nowhere, Population 17." When we saw what we were dealing with, we decided to continue another 13 miles to a private campground at Cold Springs. Wesley was busy tinkering with his bike, so Dave and I went inside the bar/mini-mart to sample the $1.50 Miller High Life. We were soon informed that Cold Springs had burned to the ground... So we decided to stay in Middlegate. There was free camping behind the bar, and it happened to be right under the only trees from Fallon to Ely.

We enjoyed a hearty dinner at the bar, listening to the local yokels gossip.

Day 10: Hawthorne, NV to Fallon, NV

Today's mileage: 73
Total mileage: 611

The day began in good spirits with a big breakfast at the diner in the attached to our hotel.

As we left town, Dave saw an Ordnance Museum and insisted on having his picture taken with some big ammo.

The first 20 miles took us along beautiful Walker Lake. Road conditions were less than optimal. Nevada is really big on ble strips, except these aren't any ordinary ble strips. Going over them on your bike rattles your brain around inside your head. The other problem is that they take up half of the shoulder, leaving only a foot-wide strip to ride on, sometimes less. And when there is a guard rail, forget about it - treacherous!

Up until this point, we hadn't seen much wildlife. The signs that claimed bighorn sheep were near didn't pan out, even with my excellent sheep calls echoing through the canyon... but we did see some of the biggest, scariest spiderwebs around.

We arrived in the small town of Schurz for a quick lunch. My butt was killing me, and so was my shoulder.

So we pushed on the final 40 miles to Fallon. There were a couple climbs and some nice long descents. Alpine got a flat at the top of the last hill, which he fixed without much ado. Later, he was hearing some weird sounds from his back wheel, and discovered that his tire had a big rip in it. He pushed on but shortly got another flat and opted to patch the tire with electrical tape. Thanks to Fox, Alpine had plenty of new tubes to spare. He made it the remaining two miles into town on the damaged tire.

Wesley was already in Fallon, where he discovered that the rodeo was in town. We opted for a hotel, since the only camping option was to pitch a tent at the fairgrounds amid the hustle and bustle of the rodeo.